Uploaded by Michael White on July 18, 2013 at 13:12
A central Nebraska beekeeper shares his afternoon of “Hive Splitting”..creating new colonies and expanding bee populations through providing additional accom…
I confess that I haven’t made nucs, and I should. UNL entomology likes a two nucs/ brood box approach, with entrances at opposite ends of the box. That allows 4 frames per nuc, which I feel would give you a stronger little colony. I’m interested in your project, please keep me advised.
I intend to make 3 (2 frames each) nucs and separate them with plywood inside a 10 frames box.
If you have queens in both boxes, it would more than likely result in the battle to death of one of the queens. Frames of workers and brood can be mixed, some advise having them in separate boxes, divided by a couple of layers of newspaper. By the time they chew through the paper, the different scents are less antagonistic. I mix frames of workers and brood into the same boxes without problems.
One question please: is it a good ideea to put two or more nucs in the same box ? Thank you !
It seems like if there was any time to wear a bee suit this would be it. Then again, I know nothing about bee keeping.
Martin, I sense that you may be from the same area as the Carniolan bee, is my perception correct? I probably leave more honey on the hives over the winter than necessary, but I’d rather err in that direction. The honey is a far more complete nutritional product for them than sugar syrup, plus stored pollen satisfies the protein requirement. Yes, sugar is 40 cents a pound and honey up to ten times that, but a package of bees costs over $100, and the genetics aren’t climate adapted. ;-)
Haven’t been through all your comments yet to see what complaint about audio you are replying to, but yes, there are some problems. Your voice is distorted on the video and very quiet even with all audio settings and speaker volume at max. Also the music overpowers your voice by far. Hard to hear but very educational for a new beekeeper, Thank you for posting!
nice of you to use carnation bees
thing with them is that they do not need that much honey as other types.
30kg (60 pound) is a bit too much. I gave last autumn 12kg sugar per hive and they ate some of it before the winter. In most hives there was no honey at all because the summer sun burned away 90% of vegetation. All my hives went nice trough the winter. I did give them 3 patties also -1kg each with various supplements in them.
Keep up the good work 🙂
I have since found that walnut husks and shells work just as well, and have the tranquilizing acetyljuglone compound in them too. So a walnut tree doesn’t have to sacrifice life or limb to smoke the bees. More and more I am using the 50% cane sugar syrup in a mister bottle, with a drop or two of lemon grass oil instead of smoke. The bees are wetted down, can’t fly well, feel the need to store the sugar, and the scent masks alarm pheromone, as well as imitating the Nasonov – homing pheromone.
Your warning is a legitimate one. For the first half of the film, there IS a new box in the foreground, with frames of foundation and frames of drawn comb, but no bees in it. At 3:50 in the film, the honey super was removed and placed on the grass. It had been over a queen excluder, and I failed to relate that I looked at the frames to confirm no eggs or larvae, so no queen present. At 6:22 the top brood box was moved to the third hive position, the bottom was moved over an inner cover.
Sweet baby Jesus, do not put your opened bee boxes on the grass!! The bees are going to get into it and if the queen is running around trying to hide, as she often does, she may well get into the grass and be squished or lost there! Use a nice hive lid and keep your eyes peeled for that queen (I have had mine get through a queen excluder and be unexpectedly in the honey supers), and check the ground later for a ball of bees that may be huddled around a lost queen!!!
thanks fantastic video. thanks for the walnut bark tip
What part didn’t you understand? Maybe we can tutor you.
Thanks great video!
The guy likes the sound of his own voice and never gets around to actually splitting or explaining how to do it.
TOO MUCH TALKING!!
I can field this question for you, or others who are now reading it. When you split from a strong hive, the frames you pull will have brood and food in them already. I personally look for hives that are producing queen cells and possibly getting ready to swarm. The brood will hatch in the new location (no long wait), the new queen will emerge and fly out to mate within 15 days avg. So within 3 weeks, strength is building. My splits make it 2 out of 3 times.
My left ear enjoyed the voice. My right ear enjoyed the song.
@teenprepper96 Check with your state or local beekeepers’ association, all offer mentoring programs and some offer scholarships which provide most everything you need to get started. Welcome to the Bee Borg!
thanks, we have an orchard on property, that is where I will keep the hives, mostly TBH’s
HEY,KID!THATS IT,YOU DO THAT!ITS UP TO YOUR GENERATION TO FIX THE DISASTERS OF THE PAST! now go forth helping the earth and yourself to sustain life on our planet! (raising cray fish and bullfrogs is pretty cool,too!) then you have EARNED your right to party!!!! we,your parents generation(us electric youth of the eighties) had to fight for it against a system that could care less about nature,and more about profit.now your generation can discover nature IS profitable.GO FOR IT!!!
YOU HAVE BEEN ASSIMILATED! RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!
I have been bitten and I am only 15, I dont have a hive yet but I am addicted, its too late in the year now but next spring i am getting some hives
We get lots of comments about going suitless. Charlie Mraz would even go shirtless. I have done it, but recommend removing chest hair. I talk about the mindset in working a hive in Videopole’s “Garden of Beeden, part 1. But I also adapt to the bees on the issue, they are most tolerant between mid morning and midafternoon, with calm to gentle winds, sunny, temps between 55 and 80F, and with a good nectar flow in progress. Busy hands are happy hands.
The Thing about the Sound is that the Music is right and Speaker on left.
Love them little fellas!
Great Video. Lots of info and a good/funny narrator. Pretty brave for not wearing a suit!
feed all the larvaes with royal jelly than they will become queens. The 1st one that hatches will kill all the others.
I hope I have helped you. I did this with all my 100 hives and now i have 200 here in Brazil
1st you gotta have another empty hive with all frames with wax, then you put this empty hive at the side of the old hive (that has the bees). Than you change 5 empty frames to the old hive and select 5 frames from the old one to the new one just make sure this frames have the larvae and then you change the places of the hives, putting the new one in the place of the Old one and when the bees that are flying come back and realize they dont have a queen they’ll
RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!
green2lean – The sellers of queens want you to believe that home raised queens are inferior. If by chance the hive is queenless and raises an emergency queen, they will choose a new larvae and give it royal jelly for all five days of development. The hives senses that it is queenless in 30 minutes by the diminution of queen pheromone. One hopes that the queen laid eggs up to the time of her disappearance. A brood frame has 7200 cells and can carry a pound of bees on the surface – 3000+
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