Backwards Beekeepers TV: The Honey Harvest

Backwards Beekeeping guru Kirk Anderson (aka Kirkobeeo) takes honey from two of his hives–one of which becomes very testy during the process. Then Kirk demonstrates the easy crush-and-strain method of honey extraction. This is the part of beekeeping that gets everyone the most excited. Video directed by Russell Bates. Find more at


Liz Batchelor says:

Great video!!

Eileen8490 says:

Yum Yum Yum Yum YUM!!! =D

ModestTruth says:

I absolutely love your laugh at the end, after the flourish you gave when you said “palette!” LOL, it was purely hilarious! You remind me of the one crazy uncle that everyone has.

<3 Lot's of love from Ohio!

Summer S says:

please understand, we leave bees plenty of honey to get through the winter and avoid feeding the bees – we want them to eat what they’ve saved. Backwards Beekeepers only take excess honey from the hive. We do not starve the bees of what they’ve worked so hard for. Do NOT get it confused.

VinceTheInstructer50 says:

how often do you harvest the honey?. i’m interested in starting a hobbie beehive, and this way it looks simple .. 

Sacrifice117 says:

that looks like my uncle dave

MaterialSociety says:

The people that watch or feel Hive Harvesting video’s are great, more than likely wan’t random people to go up onto their property and just Loot whatever they feel, unless they are just contradicting themselves with their job as Bee Keepers, by looting all the Bee’s hard work (ever make a garden with whatever you desire and wake up and someone has harvested your stuff) Same thing; but Bee’s don’t get paid.

SendmetoVegas says:

@89Czeko LMAO! I knew i heard that shit in the background…I had to pause it just to see if it was my music.

AmericanAcquiescence says:

So to keep from overworking the bees, they usually either use a nadiring system (adding boxes to the bottom, rather than the top, and letting the bees move down at their own pace) as is usually practiced with Warre hives, or they they use a horizontal hive, like a Kenyan or Tanzanian top bar hive, which the bees feel less pressured to fill quickly. I hope that answers your question.

AmericanAcquiescence says:

Many feel that a foundationless approach is better for the bees, even if it means less honey. Also, foundationless beekeeping does not necessarily overwork the bees. Rather, “natural” beekeepers believe that the practice of supering is what overworks bees. Bees do not like having empty space over their hive, so when an empty box is added to the top of the stack, they work to fill it as quickly as possible.

AmericanAcquiescence says:

If memory serves, the reasons for going foundationless are that it allows the bees to build smaller worker cells (increases varroa resistance), it allows the bees to build drone cells in the brood nest (eliminates the need for a queen excluder and lowers stress levels), it avoids unsanitary extraction practices, and it avoids the miticide contamination associated with commercial foundation use.

AmericanAcquiescence says:

Forgot to add: because this guy is guy is using foundationless frames, the bees can draw their own comb and build whatever size brood cells they want. This allows the queen to lay drone eggs in the brood nest, which should eliminate the need for a queen excluder. Sorry about all the replies. I hope that helps. 🙂

AmericanAcquiescence says:

If worker foundation is keeping them from meeting their 15% (on average) drone quota, the queen may venture into the honey stores in search of larger cells for the drones. (The honey storage cells are larger and can more easily accommodate drone brood.) And if the bees are preparing to swarm, the drone proportion should be even higher than 15%. But as long as the queen has room to lay the eggs that she wants to lay in the brood nest, she has no reason to lay in the honey stores.

AmericanAcquiescence says:

I’m still a new beekeeper, but I may be able to answer your question. Bees prefer to keep the brood nest and the honey stores separate. Usually, the queen will only venture into the honey stores to lay there for one of two reasons: either she’s run out of room in the brood nest, or the bees are being forced to use foundation with worker cells in the brood nest, which is keeping them from raising drones. Bees naturally raise about 15% drones.

biobasher says:

do u sell them? if you do how much money do u get?

Blubberkinesis says:

Not just any honey harvest. THE honey harvest.

yamba01 says:

Btw do you think it’s true that local honey makes you more immune to local pollen? I moved to NC from Chicago and I’ve been suffering sometimes

yamba01 says:

I’ve been fascinating at the honeycomb that the local farmers left in the jar of honey they sold me. So this is how it’s done…

I’m also impressed how your comments seem troll free

LunaWolfe1 says:

If there is no queen excluder, won’t you end up harvesting some of the brood cells? Won’t the queen end up laying eggs on all the frames?

Husein Kerkuklu says:

thank you it is grate clip and useful.but I have a Question I have one beehive with 2 Boxes but not has Queen Excluder between first and second box. I want to put Excluder between two boxes how i can do it because the problem is the queen how i find it and can be replaced from second or third high box to first one? can be they flay and never come back if replace the queen place and how i re place her.
Husein – kirkuk city – Iraq-

TruthSmack says:

Can I lick the bucket?

presa1200 says:

sometimes dark honeys are sold at expensive price in south east Asia because forest bees only build their nests on a particular species of tropical trees. these giant trees can be 4-5 stories high of a building and beekeepers have to risk their lives climbing up in order to collect the honey. it’s called the “Tualang honey” and you can google it.

presa1200 says:

darker honey is better due to the presence of minerals and anti-oxidants. usually darker honeys are origin from mountain and forest. however it is not as sweet as golden honey and one might get salty/malty taste depends on the region.

paintballgunner123 says:

were do u get the bees

paintballgunner123 says:

thanks dude i am saving up for some hives and i want to make my own company

heyclarisse says:

hey I tried to use just starter strips on my frames as well – they crossed bars like crazy, those crazy bees! I was told (after this experient) that the Langstroth hive frames were not quite wide enough and that was why they want to jump over. What do you think? Your frames seem to be perfectly fine.
BTW, I LOVE your video and your attitude!
What do you do with the wax left over? P.S. you are not such a fat homosapien – I’ve seen fatter LOL!

GreyStar01 says:

lol they use “africanized” honey bees in Africa or the same shit we use European bees for. That “killer bee” crap was all bogus scaremongering.

organleroy says:

Because it’s yum yum tasty flavorful.

scottishwar4 says:

why is darker honey better?

organleroy says:

To the commenter below: that’s not wax in the honey. It’s pollen and other plant substances, naturally occurring in the honey. That’s the good stuff. We’re not interested in filtering it out.

sweetfeet666 says:

Just curious about the crush and strain method… It seems that this method allows alot of wax to get into a finished product. it just looks like the honey is cloudy when it goes into the bottle. whould more extencive straining fix that?

sandiegorn2 says:

Thanks for making this video! We used it to harvest honey from our backyard hive and it’s a perfect method!!

gibbus444 says:

Question: If you’re working the girls all that extra by going foundationless, wouldn’t you keep the comb for chunk honey? In other words, if you have the same final product as the extraction process, why go foundationless? Thank you.

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